k or frame connection last.
6.7. If using jumper cables, some vehicle manufacturers recommend that you turn off the engine of the good vehicle to protect it’s charging system prior to starting the disabled vehicle. Check the owner’s manual; otherwise, leave the engine running so you can avoid being stranded should you not be able to restart the good vehicle.
6.8. If using jumper cables, start the disabled vehicle and allow it to run at high idle. If the vehicle does not start the first time, recheck the connections, wait a few minutes,
12v battery tester
, and try again.
6.9. Disconnect the jumper or jump starter cables in the REVERSE order, starting with the NEGATIVE clamp on the engine block or frame of the disabled vehicle to minimize the possibility of an explosion. Allow the engine on the disable car to run until the engine come to full operating temperature before driving and continue to run until you reach your final destination, because stopping the engine might require another jump start.
6.10. As soon as possible and at room temperature, fully recharge the dead battery tester with an external "smart" or "automatic" battery tester charger matched to the battery tester type, remove the surface charge and load test the battery tester and charging system to determine if any latent or permanent damage has occurred as a result of the deep discharge. This is especially important if you had a frozen battery tester or jump started a sealed wet Maintenance Free (Ca/Ca) battery tester. A vehicle’s charging system is not designed to recharge a dead battery tester and could overheat and be damaged (bad diodes or burned stator) doing so or the battery tester could be under charged and loose capacity.
In the event that the jumper or jump starter cables were REVERSED and there is no power to all or part of the vehicle, test the fusible links, fuses,
car battery tester
, circuit breakers, battery tester, charging system and emissions computer and, if bad, reset or replace. Their locations and values should be shown in the vehicle’s Owner’s Manual. If replacing the faulty parts do not repair the electrical system, having it repaired by a good auto electric repair shop is highly recommended.
7. WHAT DO I LOOK FOR IN BUYING A NEW battery tester?
Last Updated on February 26, 2005
INDEX:
7.1. battery tester Types
7.1.1. Wet Standard (Sb/Sb)
7.1.2. Wet Low Maintenance (Sb/Ca)
7.1.3. Wet "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca)
7.1.4. AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) VRLA
7.1.5. Spiral Wound AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) VRLA
7.1.6. Wet Marine Starting
7.1.7. Gel Cell VRLA
7.1.8. What Are the Differences Between Car, Marine Starting and Deep Cycle Batteries?
7.1.9. What Are Dual or Multi-battery tester Systems?
7.2. CCA (Cold Cranking Amps)
CCA vs. Temperature Diagram
7.3. Reserve Capacity (RC) or Amp Hour (AH) Capacity
Peukert Effect
7.3.1. Is Capacity Effected By Temperature?
AH Capacity vs. Temperature Graph
7.3.2. How Do I Increase battery tester Capacity?
battery tester Wiring Diagrams
7.3.3. Which is Better, Two 6-volt Batteries in Series or Two 12-volt Batteries in Parallel?
7.3.4. How Do I Increase the Voltage?
7.3.5. How Can I Reduce the Voltage?
7.3.6. Which Weighs More–One 12-volt or Two 6-volt Batteries?
7.3.7. Can I Mix Non-Identical Batteries?
7.4. Size
7.5. Terminals
7.6. Freshness
7.7. Warranty
7.8. Buying Tips
7.9. How Do I Size The Components For Backup AC Power?
Car battery tester buying strategy for use in Alaska, for example, is different than in the hotter climates found in South Texas. In extremely cold climates, higher CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) ratings are more important. In a hot climate, higher RC (Reserve Capacity) or AH (Ampere Hour) ratings are more important than CCA; however, the cranking amp sizing should be based on the coldest climate the engine is started in. Do NOT buy a new battery tester until it is needed because it will sulfate sitting in storage and you will lose capacity. Below is an example of car battery tester life expectancy in the United States from Interstate Batteries:
[Source: Interstate Batteries]
7.1. battery tester Types
The two most common categories of car and deep cycle batteries are wet (also known as "flooded", "liquid electrolyte", "vented", or "VLA" cell) and Valve Regulated Lead-Acid (VRLA). Within the wet category, the three most common battery tester types are Standard (Sb/Sb), Low Maintenance (Sb/Ca) and Maintenance Free (Ca/Ca), which are defined in more detail below. In the VRLA category, there are AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat), spiral wound AGM, and Gel Cell lead-acid batteries. The one additional category for smaller (typically below 50 AH) deep cycle batteries is SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) using AGM or Gel Cell VRLA construction. In 2004, approximately 30% of the SLA batteries are produced in China. All VRLA batteries are sealed with a safety pressure relief valve or plug in case of excessive gas pressure build up due to overcharging or overheating.
When selecting a battery tester type,
battery load tester
, it is extremely important that you select a battery tester that will MATCH the voltage output of your charging system and application. The easiest way to accomplish this is to replace your battery tester with the same or compatible type of battery tester that originally was installed in your vehicle or appliance. If you change your replacement battery tester to another battery tester type, you might have to adjust the charging voltage to prevent undercharging or overcharging that could damage or reduce the service life of your new battery tester. For example, replacing an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) wet sealed "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) with a wet non-sealed Low Maintenance (Sb/Ca) battery tester (with filler caps) might cause the Low-Maintenance (Sb/Ca) battery tester to be slightly overcharged and consume more water. If you charge a "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) battery tester with a charging system or charger designed for a Low Maintenance (Sb/Ca) battery tester (with filler caps), you could undercharge the "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) battery tester. Replacing any other non-Gel Cell type of battery tester with a Gel Cell VRLA battery tester could overcharge it. When in doubt, replace with an AGM VRLA or spiral wound AGM VRLA battery tester. Ventilation is required for all lead-acid batteries and good ventilation is mandatory for wet batteries to dissipate the explosive gasses produced during the absorption charge stage.
Deep cycle batteries are broadly divided into motive and stationary applications. Motive applications are where the battery tester is discharged in operations that will consume between 20% and 80% of the battery tester’s capacity and then recharged (which is considered to be one cycle). Some examples of motive (also known as "cycling" or "traction") applications are for batteries used in recreational vehicles (RV), motor homes, caravans, trailers, boats, wheelchairs, golf carts, solar, floor sweepers, folk lift trucks and other electric vehicles (EV) and typically have between 200-500 cycles per year. Stationary (also known as "float", "reserve", "backup" or "standby") applications are where stationary batteries is used to provide backup or standby power during loss of the primary source of power such as uninterruptible power systems (UPS), emergency lighting systems, security systems, telecommunications systems, etc., and typically have 2-12 cycles per year. Generally, stationary batteries have longer service lives, more life cycles and cost more than motive batteries. The chargers for motive and stationary deep cycle batteries are different as well.
Non-sealed wet Standard (Sb/Sb), wet Low-Maintenance (Sb/Ca), AGM or Gel Cell VRLA batteries with pasted, tubular or Manchester ("Manchex") positive plates or VRLA Spiral Wound AGM batteries are recommended for motive deep cycle applications. Non-sealed wet Standard (Sb/Sb), wet Low-Maintenance (Sb/Ca), wet "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) batteries with pasted or solid (Planté) positive plates are recommended for stationary applications. For more information about larger deep cycle batteries (greater than 250 AH), please see Wind & Sun’s Ultimate Deep Cycle battery tester FAQ and Zen and the Art of Choosing a Deep Cycle battery tester.
Wet deep cycle batteries, such as Marine/RV, leisure and some golf cart, that use pasted positive plates are less expensive to manufacturer and have few life cycles and shorter service lives at 50% average Depth-of-Discharge (DoD) level than the deep cycle batteries with solid (Planté), tubular or Manchester (or "Manchex") positive plates. They also have significantly fewer life cycles at the 80% average DoD level. Be aware that some starting battery tester manufacturers have added handles and stud type terminals to their cheaper starting batteries and sell them as Marine/RV deep cycle. The major disadvantage of VRLA (AGM or Gel Cell) deep cycle batteries are their high initial cost (up to three times over the cost of a wet Standard (Sb/Sb) batteries), but arguably can have an overall lower total cost of ownership due to a longer service life, no "watering" and other labor costs, and faster recharging. The total cost of ownership should be considered when buying deep cycle batteries. There is a cost comparison for some popular wet solar deep cycle batteries on THE SOLAR BiZ Web site at .
7.1.1. Wet Standard (Sb/Sb) 4ba8te9
Standard or "Conventional" (Sb/Sb) non-sealed lead-acid batteries (with filler caps) have Lead-Antimony (Sb) positive/Antimony (Sb) negative plates and have been commercially available for almost 100 years. They have a:
* Lower initial cost
* Tolerance for a wide range of charging current (to 25% of the battery tester’s capacity) and voltage
* Long service live (if properly maintained)
* Increased water consumption and production of gas requiring more ventilation
* High self-discharge rate (depending on the temperature, up to 50%-60% per month)
* Charging losses of 15%-20% and maximum continuous discharge rate 25% of their capacity
For these reasons, they have almost been completely replaced by wet Low Maintenance (Ca/Sb) batteries for high temperat
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